Tongeren

Tongeren: older than it looks

Tongeren is the oldest city in Belgium, with roots going back to Roman times. You feel that on the Grote Markt. The square has a quiet, solid quality, as if the centuries have simply passed over it without much fuss. At its centre stands the statue of Ambiorix, the Gallic leader who outwitted the Romans. Behind him rises the basilica of Onze-Lieve-Vrouw, one of the largest Gothic churches in the Benelux. Together they form a composition you can fit into a single frame with a wide lens, but one that also rewards zooming in on the details: the weathered stone, the market stalls, the traffic that, on Sundays, is largely absent.

The Sunday market: the real reason to come

Every Sunday there is an antiques market on the Grote Markt and in the surrounding streets. It is large, busy, and thoroughly photogenic. Stalls with old porcelain, piles of books, paintings that no longer have a home anywhere. Buyers and sellers deep in conversation. Light that falls low across the market early in the morning and pulls long shadows. This is street photography at its most enjoyable: plenty of movement, plenty of layers, and people too absorbed in their own business to notice you. Come early, especially in the summer months. Between nine and eleven you get the best light and the fewest crowds.

Light and season

The basilica sits to the northwest of the square. Morning light falls nicely on it, while in the afternoon the sun hits it head-on. For architecture, I personally prefer overcast days: the stonework reads more quietly and you avoid hard shadows that eat into the detail. In winter, when the market is small or absent altogether, the Grote Markt has a stillness that works in its own way. The Christmas period brings a temporary atmosphere that is quite different from the bustle of the summer antiques market.

Practical

There is parking on the edge of the centre, including near the Gallo-Romeins Museum, a few minutes on foot. On Sundays part of the centre closes to traffic, which gives you quieter streets but also limited access. A standard zoom, say a 24-70mm equivalent, will get you a long way. For more portrait-style street shots in the crowd, a lighter 50mm or 85mm works well. No permit is required for non-commercial photography in public spaces.

Sources and further reading

• Stad Tongeren
• Gallo-Romeins Museum Tongeren
• Basiliek O.-L.-Vrouw Geboorte Tongeren
• Wikipedia: Tongeren